Star chef Evin Ramsvik shares his recipes at Dagsavisen every week.
Tiger milk. It looks a little weird and dangerous. But fortunately for producers, tiger milk – or “leche de tigre” as it’s called in Spanish – has nothing to do with tiger milk.
Ceviche is a little more complicated
Leche de tigre is the sauce used in ceviche in Peru. Variants of ceviche are many, and I prefer to make my own variant based on the type of nikkei. Nikki is a Peruvian ceviche with influences of Japanese cuisine. Compared to traditional Peruvian ceviche, nikkei ceviche is a bit more complex.
The traditional ceviche often consists only of lemon juice, condensed milk, chili peppers, as well as fish/mussels/oysters, beans and herbs. Here, in my opinion, the sauce can be somewhat angular and monotonous.
But when you add a little soy sauce and fat from sesame oil, plus heat the ginger plus hot pepper, the whole dish rises to a new level. But you can go from the Nikkei variable as well, and that’s what we’re going to do here. Why stick to established recipes, if the flavors have improved after further development? I often find it best to cross different kitchens, often more than two.
Mexican fish taco
So in addition to building on technique and Peruvian history, while adding distinctive Japanese flavors, I have also been inspired by Mexican tacos, both in terms of accessories and presentation style. To complete the confusion, I added a typical Norwegian stuffing – trout – and I must say it myself, then the group sits like a ball!
Instead of trout, you can use salmon, halibut, salmon, shrimp or mackerel. The latter is probably my favorite ceviche of mackerel season, and it’s just around the corner. The mackerel is fat enough to give the solid acid something to work with, so the balance in the dish is just perfect. But it is known that mackerel has a strong taste, so I highly recommend using fresh fish. If mackerel is allowed to lie down for a while, it develops so much taste and aroma that it can become unsatisfactory to eat cold and raw. Then it is better suited for barbecue or frying pan.
Trout in tiger’s milk
Ingredients (2 people)
- 200gm trout fillets
- 4 lemons
- 1 hot red pepper
- 1 inch of ginger
- 2 tablespoons sesame oil
- 4 tablespoons soy sauce
- 0.5 dl unsweetened condensed milk
- 1 tablespoon sriracha sauce
- 1 clove garlic
- 1 avocado
- 1 can boiled white beans
- 8 large coleslaw leaves
- bunch of coriander
- 4 tablespoons crunchy onions (from bag)
- Put the condensed milk, sriracha, sesame oil, and soy sauce in a deciliter scale, perhaps in a suitable container. Add grated ginger, red pepper without stem and seeds, as well as the juice of two lemons. Mix the mixture well with a hand mixer. Keep the sauce cold until use.
- Rinse the boiled beans well in cold water before placing them in a bowl with the avocado, lemon juice, a pinch of salt, and half of the cilantro. Also run this with a hand mixer until you get a fine, smooth puree. Season with salt.
- Cut the fish into cubes, about 2 x 2 cm, and put in a bowl. Squeeze over lemon juice until all fish is covered, and place bowl in refrigerator for at least 10 minutes, until fish is marinated and marinated in lemon juice. When the fish is ready, drain any excess liquid and stir in the condensed milk marinade. Season with salt and possibly more lemon juice if needed.
- Serve mashed avocado on the bottom of washed and dried coleslaw leaves, top with fish and sauce, and finish with crunchy onions and coarsely chopped cilantro.
Are you skeptical about fresh, light wines? Then you should be diverted through this week’s chic collection.
Written by Knut Espen Mesje, Sommelier, Course Head and Co-author of several cookbooks / NTB
This week’s dish, ceviche, harmonizes with a light and sour drinking partner, with a refreshing and tangy aroma. Good apple cider or cider is ideal, as is light and fresh wheat beer.
humid Atlantic climate
From the world of wine, we can choose both sparkling wine and youthful white wine. The important thing is to find a wine that adapts to both the fat of trout and avocado and the acidity of tiger’s milk.
Albarino is a grape that goes well with light dishes. In the humid Atlantic climate of the Galician wine region of Rías Baixas, in northwestern Spain, the conditions are perfect for this grape to ripen perfectly. The result is a wine that looks fresh and slightly aromatic, with pliable fruits and acidity that suit ceviche perfectly.
Very special craftsmanship and purity
Granbazán Albariño Etiqueta Verde 2021 (Item No. 1362101, pick order, NOK 219.90) is a very good Albarino. It is fermented at low temperature in neutral tanks and packed early. The sharp citrus of wine meets lime and ginger in the marinade without any issues, and the fruit has just enough roundness and freshness to match the light fat in trout and avocado.
The wine also has a light floral touch, combined with citrus undertones and a green-green touch. This pairs well with both cilantro and a crunchy cabbage salad.
Here you get not only a fresh and very tasty match, but also a wine that in itself provides good value for money. The wine has a finesse and purity not uncommon in this price range, and thus is an instructive example that wine doesn’t have to be plump or “big” in structure to be very good.
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